METKOVIC: For centuries the Ladja boat was the only means of transport on Croatia`s Neretva river delta but in modern times it fell into disuse. Now an annual race has breathed new life into the vessel.
"We are so proud of it. If you look at it, you might think it`s an ugly little duckling but for us this ship is like a luxury cruiseliner," said Marko Marusic, one of the organisers of the annual riverboat marathon which draws tens of thousands of spectators to the marshlands in southern Croatia.
Launched 13 years ago by a group of Ladja enthusiasts determined to save the simple wooden boat from oblivion, the Neretva Marathon -- which links Metkovic to the port of Ploce over 22.5 kilometers (14 miles) -- has become one of the most important sporting and cultural events in Croatia.
Late Saturday afternoon, as the sun was setting, some 30 boats lined up in the canal at Metkovic, waiting for the start signal. The race drew thousands of spectators who lined up along the canal backs to cheer on their teams.
"We are only returning the boat to its former importance which it held for centuries. This boat might not be pretty but she is like a mother, you love her because she is your mother," Marusic, who lives in Vid village, told AFP Saturday.
After part of the marshes of the Neretva delta were drained in the 1960s and roads were constructed the majority of Ladjas either sank to the bottom of the remaining canals or were overgrown by reed beds.
"People thought I was crazy when I tried to push them to organise the marathon," Milojko Glasovic, one of the organisers of the race, recounted.
Built usually from pine or oak wood the Ladja is a rather basic rowing boat used by the delta`s inhabitants to get around. It was used to transport vegetables, hay and animals but was also used by people to travel from one village to another and to move the deceased to the cemetery.
"They say here that they were born on the boat and died on the boat," said Mario Srsen, the director of the race and the captain of the Donjani Donji team.
"The people who owned a boat were bosses, rich people. The poor people had to rent one," eightysomething year old Ante, who would not give his last name, said.
In former times the 7-metre-long (22-foot) Ladja, for the race manned by ten rowers and a helmsman, was towed along the canals by women.
"A man would be at the helm while the women walked on the riverbanks, towing the boat with ropes," Srsen said.
These days the women are firmly on board. Milena Miskic is the captain of an all-women team who hasn`t missed a race. A retired soldier, 38-year-old Miskic is a mother of five.
"Two years ago I rowed (the race) while pregnant. Last year my husband brought ny child to the halfway point so I could breastfeed," she said proudly, speaking to AFP on the terrace of a hotel near the starting line.
At the next table there was a lively discussion about everybody`s chances of winning this race.
Josko Jerkovic, 47, the captain of the Rogotin team and a local champion who already has six titles under his belt, said his team of farmers stood a good chance of winning.
"I harvested over 40 tonnes of tomatoes this year and I am in great shape. Still we also trained for four months (for the race) because we can`t afford to gamble with our reputation," he explained.
Sadly for Josko his team arrived in sixth place at the finish in Ploce. What`s worse the race was won by the neighbouring village of Komin, arch enemy of Rogotin.
BDST: 0935 HRS, August 15, 2010
